At Umrao Cashmere, the entire product line is either hand-woven or hand knitted. The hand weaving process, an old art form, is still practiced today at our factory with the help of some modern tools. The complicated and intricate hand weaving / finishing process goes through various stages, to become the luxurious product you receive.
Below, we have tried to give you an idea of most the different stages of production with the help of some visuals. We do hope that you will appreciate the hand work that goes into making each piece an heirloom.
At this initial stage the yarn is re-coned from a larger cone to a smaller one to be used to create the warp or is converted from cone to hank to be sent to the dye department if required.
A heddle is an integral part of a loom. Each thread in the warp passes through a heddle, which is used to separate the warp threads for the passage of the weft. The heddles are fitted on frames that ate suspended on the loom.
Each heddle has an eye in the center where the warp is threaded through. As there is one heddle for each thread of the warp, there can be nearly a thousand heddles for fine or wide warps.
A handwoven throw will generally have between 900 to2000 warp threads and a blanket will have 1700 to 3400 warp threads and thus use that many heddles, sometimes 2 -3 warp threads are passed through one heddle depending on the yarn and texture of the fabric.
The warp is threaded through heddles on different frames in order to obtain different weave structures.
This process of setting up the warp threads through the heddles is known as drafting. It is during the drafting process that the weave pattern is setup.
Weaving is a textile craft in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced to form a fabric or cloth. The threads which run length ways are called the warp and the threads which run across from side to side are the weft.
Cloth is usually woven on a loom, while weft threads are woven through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven".A fabric band is one which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between).
The way the warp and weft threads interlace with each other is called the weave